Isle of Wight Coastal Path Blog

Day 3

Yarmouth to Freshwater Bay

9.2 miles

Today was bright and very breezy as we set out from Yarmouth along the sea wall. The day was cool and we stopped to don our jackets. The path took us into Fort Victoria Country Park and for some time we followed an old military road through the woodland from Fort Victoria to Cliff End Battery.

Yarmouth Harbour

Following the sea wall

Carole makes a friend in Fort Victoria Country Park

Unusual blossom

We emerged from the trees to the coast and looking right could see the imposing block of Fort Victoria. As we walked along we met a local walking his dog and he cheerfully pointed out details of the coast and channels, which he knew from yachting. Like all Isle of Wight locals we met, he was friendly and helpful and wanted us to enjoy his island.

A little further on we walked down the access road to Brambles Chine Holiday Camp and reached a waterfront cafe where we stopped for coffee and scones, sheltered from the breeze by glass panels.

We then walked along the coast for a while, through Colwell Bay and then along the sea wall to Totland.

The narrowest part of the Solent

Impressive Fort Victoria

Arriving at Brambles Chine Holiday Camp

Hurrying towards a waterfront cafe for coffee at Totland

We now followed a meandering path upwards to the open area of Headon Warren, so called because it used to be a farmed rabbit warren in the middle ages. We walked over the Warren to the summit of Headon Hill, choosing our path from several overgrown and indistinct paths, until we descended to a main road and turned right to Alum Bay. All of a sudden we were among dozens of coach tourists and we quickly walked on away from the pleasure park, our path climbing to higher ground where we had a view over to The Needles for the first time and looking back a good view of the cliffs at Alum Bay.

Sign on Headon Warren

First view of The Needles

The Needles

Alum Bay

We ascended the white cliffs towards the Needles, across the down and passed some coastguard cottages. This is a very exposed point and the cottages were protected by tree planting that almost hid them from view on the coastal facing side. We wandered down to look at the old batteries now managed by the National Trust, then climbed back to look at the new batteries where there was a free exhibition devoted to a secret rocket development project from the '60s. We enjoyed the exhibition and had another coffee before climbing back to the top of the Down, where a wide green expanse straddles the sea on either side.

Drawing at the New Battery

How the New Battery looks today

Japanese tourists take a selfie

The Needles from the other side

We walk down for a look around

From The Needles Viewpoint

It was easy to aim for the Tennyson Monument standing out against the skyline, and from here to continue down to our destination, Seahorses Guest House in Freshwater Bay. As there was limited choice in this area Wight Wanders had kindly booked us into a local pub for our evening meal, The Red Lion, and this proved to be a good choice as we had a good meal in relaxing surroundings.