Day 6

Sandown to Ryde

13.2 miles

This morning was the first time we have woken to cloudy skies.  It had rained in the night, there was no wind and it was hot and humid.  The Belmore Guest House provided us with a very nice breakfast and we were on our way just after 9am.  We walked along the Esplanade towards the white cliffs of Culver Down and were soon leaving Sandown behind.  We passed the Isle of Wight Zoo and on to Yaverland, then up Red Cliff, wick with rabbits that appeared to have no fear even though people were exercising their dogs nearby. We were heading for a large monument on the highest point, a memorial to the Earl of Yarborough, and we paused to read it on arrival, impressed that it had been paid for by public subscription.

Looking confident at Sandown

How useful we found these signs throughout our walk

Culver Down

The Earl of Yarborough Monument, Culver Down

 Then it was down to the coast and although the sea was still to our side it was mainly obscured by hedging. 

We missed the cafe where we were hoping for coffee as it had changed its name from that in our notes and rather disgruntled on realising our error we became obsessed with the next chance, which was at Culver, the Beach Hut and very nice too.

Culver Down

On the path behind Bembridge School

Whitecliff Bay

Coffee and tea at The Beach Hut

 

The narrow Coastal Path now continued to Bembridge Point and passed by the Crab and Lobster, too early for our lunch, we thought.  From this point we were able to walk along the beach as the tide was out, all the way to Bembridge Harbour.  We saw people exploring rock pools and Carole said she would have enjoyed doing this if we had more time.  On the edge of  Bembridge Harbour we came to a cafe opposite the Pilot Boat Inn and we stopped for another coffee, watching jackdaws working the tables, we were more used to seeing chaffinches do this at home.

Soon after leaving it started to drizzle and we put waterproof jackets on as we walked round Bembridge Harbour, which seemed huge.  It was fascinating to see boats that had been turned into houses sitting in the sand and weed as though waiting for high tide to float them off.  Some were smart and modern, some whimsical and others plain scruffy.  One had a sign saying 'Floatel'.

Beach walk to Bembridge

The Lifeboat Jetty, Bembridge

Appropriate weather vane at Bembridge

House boats at Bembridge Harbour - the one on the left is a 'Floatel'

The Old Mill Dam Wall

We crossed the RiverYar by road bridge then arrived at the strange sight of a narrow stone causeway crossing the wide river bed in a straight line with green weed and pools of water to either side.  We assumed this was a feature of low tide. A family caught our attention, a man and woman were standing at the edge of the wall casting a weighted line into one of the larger pools. We stopped to ask them about it and they explained that they were catching crabs for fun, and that they threw them back.  We saw they were using pieces of ham in a muslin bag at the end of a fishing line. It was fascinating to watch as the crabs grabbed the ham through the muslin and clung on for grim death as they were hauled out of the sea and dropped into a bucket, sometimes falling back into the water.  It was much like the magnetic fishing game that children play.

The path is actually the Old Mill Dam Wall and on reaching the other side there followed an interval of country walking before reaching Seaview, where we stopped yet again, this time for lunch and we enjoyed a cheese and tomato sandwich with a beer.  We sat at a table by the harbour and watched people messing about in boats for a pleasant interlude.

The last stretch of the Isle of Wight Coastal Path was a saunter along sea walls, gradually approaching Ryde, whose pier we could see from a great distance.  We knew the pier was further than our destination and we were soon back at the Appley Manor Hotel, our starting point, pausing only long enough to book a table for a celebratory (and rather expensive) dinner at The Three Bouys Bistro on the seafront.

Sea wall walk at Seaview

Back at Appley Manor Hotel and a toast to the Coastal Walk!

Celebrating the end of the walk!

It had been a lovely walk. The days were sufficiently different to make it interesting and the weather had been good.  The late spring flowers,  wide open landscapes - and seascapes - and the colours of the sea, sky and beaches were a visual treat.  We also enjoyed the shivers caused by occasionally being so close to the cliff edge, good food and drink and the friendliness of the islanders.  Glad we did it! 

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